Why is it that the Japanese, who generally frown on noisy eating, consider it proper and even preferable to suck up one’s noodles with a loud slurping sound? Food writer and soba aficionado Motohashi Takashi probes the origins of this fascinating and occasionally controversial custom with the help of Horii Yoshinori, proprietor of one of Tokyo’s oldest soba shops.
The author, a soba enthusiast, demonstrates the proper way to eat Japanese buckwheat noodles.
Few foods in Japan are more popular than noodles, a favorite among natives and tourists alike. After all, what’s not to like about a delicious, quick, and inexpensive meal of soba (buckwheat noodles), udon (thick wheat noodles), or ramen? Yet last year, the noodle briefly emerged as a focus of heated debate when an anonymous Japanese tweeter began holding forth on the subject of “noodle harassment.” The gist of the rant was that the Japanese custom of slurping one’s noodles is not merely offensive to foreigners but actually qualifies as a form of harassment—nū-hara for short. The comments were widely retweeted, and the topic spilled over into the mainstream media, eliciting passionate responses pro and con.
Cooler heads eventually prevailed, as it became clear that the original tweeter had fabricated a controversy more or less out of thin air. Still, there is no denying that noodle slurping is a distinctively Japanese custom that tends to provoke reactions ranging from amusem*nt to disgust among foreigners exposed to it for the first time. After all, noodles of various types, from spaghetti to lo mein, are consumed the world over, but slurping is sanctioned almost nowhere outside of Japan.
It’s not that Japanese table manners are inherently permissive when it comes to slurping. In Japan as elsewhere, noisy eating is generally frowned upon, particularly in formal social situations. Why, then, have the Japanese created a special exemption for noodles? As a longtime soba aficionado and critic, I was keen to get to the bottom of this mystery. I decided to start out by asking the opinion of one of Japan’s foremost noodle experts: Horii Yoshinori of the venerable Sarashina Horii in Tokyo’s Azabu Jūban district, a 220-year-old soba shop popular among locals and tourists alike.
Horii offered a surprisingly scientific explanation.
“I would say that slurping developed as a way to better savor the aroma of soba,” he suggested. “The smell of soba is best appreciated via the mouth, not the nose. With wine tasting, for example, you first sniff, to smell the wine in the glass, then you swish it around in your mouth to capture the aroma that wafts up your nasal passages from your throat. They call it orthonasal olfaction and retronasal olfaction, respectively. Soba is difficult to smell by the first route, so we make the most of the second.”
Horii explained that the distinctive fragrance of soba comes through clearly during the cooking process, especially when the soba is steamed in bamboo steamers, as it was in the early days. “People would have smelled the aroma from the steam that escaped,” he says. But the aroma of cooked soba is much subtler. “This is especially true for chilled mori soba. There’s no aromatic steam rising up from the cold noodles, so even if you actively sniff them, there’s not much to smell. But when you slurp them vigorously, you can fully experience the aroma exploding in your mouth. That’s the correct way to eat soba.”
Indeed, from a Japanese viewpoint, it seems rather a shame (and a bit uncool) to quietly chew one’s noodles. But how did Japanese society as a whole come to embrace a behavior so out of synch with conventional table manners? I drew on some of my own historical research, as well as Horii’s valuable insights, to come up with a plausible explanation.
Chef-owner Horii Yoshinori of the famed Sarashina Horii soba shop, established in 1789.
Convenient Nutrition for the Masses
Buckwheat (also known as soba in Japanese) has been grown and consumed in various parts of Japan for centuries. It is high in nutritional value, and it matures quickly, especially compared with rice—just two-and-a-half to three months from planting to harvest. In early times, buckwheat groats were cooked into a porridge or gruel. Later, people began to grind the buckwheat into flour and make it into dumplings. In time, the dumplings evolved into soba noodles.
Soba noodles first appear in the historical record in the early Edo period (1603–1868). By the late seventeenth century, quite a few soba shops had sprung up around the fast-growing city of Edo (modern-day Tokyo). Initially offered as an additional menu option alongside the more familiar udon, soba soon eclipsed its wheat-based cousin and took its place as one of Edo’s culinary specialties.
The nutritional value of buckwheat was doubtless a major reason for soba’s popularity. Compared with refined wheat flour, buckwheat is high in protein and important B vitamins. While the consumers of the time may have lacked access to “nutrition facts” as such, experience taught them which foods supplied the nutrients they needed to stay healthy. By 1800, near the end of the Edo period, Edo boasted roughly 700 soba shops. That made it the second-largest category of food and beverage service, after the casual drinking spots known as izakaya.
“Edo was a city of one million people back then,” says Horii. “It was one of the world’s biggest urban centers. To survive in that bustling, competitive environment, people needed easy access to quick, nutritious meals. That could be one of the reasons that soba took root in Edo, while udon continues to rule in the Kansai [Kyoto-Osaka] region.”
The main attraction at Sarashina Horii is the shop’s famous Sarashina soba (¥930). The thin, pale noodles, made from highly polished buckwheat, are fine-grained and fragrant—and ideally suited for slurping.
Soba as Street Food
Many busy Edoites purchased and consumed their soba at food stands, or from mobile “night hawkers” who carried their wares about on shoulder poles. To be sure, there were also some upscale soba shops where high-ranking samurai and other relatively well-heeled patrons could gather to eat at their leisure. But at heart, soba was street food for the common folk. (It was also the street vendors of the Edo period who popularized two foods now virtually synonymous with Japanese cuisine: sushi and tempura. They, too, got their real start as street food that busy townspeople could buy and eat on the go.)
Of course, by the Edo period, the Japanese people already had a well-developed table etiquette, not so different from that observed today. Eating noisily, as one might suppose, was considered bad manners. But as Horii points out, “this was the food of the common folk, so they didn’t worry too much about formal table manners.”
Moreover, street stands were by nature places where people dashed in to grab a quick bite—often standing up—on their way to or from work or some other destination. Under the circ*mstances, it probably seemed natural to slurp up one’s noodles. In a street-smart place like Edo, only haughty diners would have complained about “bad manners.”
All in all, it seems probable that the custom of noodle slurping originated at soba stands, then spread, and continued into modern times, influencing the way the Japanese eat ramen and other noodles as well.
After slicing a batch of noodles, the soba maker carefully gathers them into a neat bundle.
I’d Like to Teach the World to Slurp
Sarashina Horii’s English-language pamphlet illustrates the finer points of soba eating.
The verdict is in: Slurping is the best way to eat soba noodles. So, why not teach the world to slurp instead of fretting over something as silly as “noodle harassment”? In fact, Sarashina Horii has printed up an illustrated English-language pamphlet for diners interested in learning more. But Horii denies any zeal to spread the gospel of slurping.
“I don’t tell anyone how to eat,” he insists. “Those that can’t slurp chew. I’m more concerned that they appreciate how delicious and nutritious soba is. You can’t force something like that on people. Hopefully, as they eat, they’ll discover that it tastes better when they slurp. The main thing is that my customers enjoy their noodles.”
Slurping noodles is a custom extending back to the Edo period and an integral part of Japan’s food culture. We need not abandon such a custom for fear of committing “noodle harassment,” but neither should we force it on others. It should be enough for us if visitors from abroad appreciate our food, regardless of how they choose to eat it. As Horii says, enjoying mealtime is more important than adhering to this or that book of etiquette.
Sarshina Horii displays its offerings in a food sample case and also provides an English menu.
Even so, a certain amount of education takes place naturally at Sarashina Horii. The “instructors” are generally older Japanese patrons from the neighborhood, many of whom learned to speak English growing up, thanks to the large number of foreign residents working at embassies in the area. They enjoy engaging foreign diners in friendly conversation, and if the subject of slurping comes up, they gladly share their know-how. In this way, Sarashina Horii is spreading the good word—about soba and slurping—in the best way possible.
Sarashina Horii at Azabu Jūban
3-11-4 Moto-Azabu
Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3403-3401
Hours
Monday–Friday: 11:30 am–8:30 pm
Saturday, Sunday: 11:00 am–8:30 pm
(Open everyday, year-round)
(Originally written and published in Japanese on May 4, 2017. Banner Photo: The distinctive aroma of soba noodles is best appreciated through the mouth. Photography by Andō Seita)
FAQs
Slurping is a sign of appreciation
In Japanese culture slurping your noodles shows how MUCH you are enjoying your meal. The slurping process also cools down the noodles and enhances flavors, so don't feel uncomfortable and just slurp it!
What cultures slurp noodles? ›
The big slurp
Slurping your noodles loudly is considered a compliment to the chef throughout Japan and China – a sign of deep appreciation for your one-bowl meal.
Why do Japanese make slurping sound? ›
Slurping noodles is not only a custom with ramen noodles but can also be done with soba and udon. Whether it is cold or hot, slurping allows you to fully experience the aroma as you eat. It's a similar idea to a wine tasting, where taste and aroma are both important for getting the full experience of the wine.
Is slurping noodles polite in Japan? ›
Loud slurping may be rude in the U.S., but in Japan it is considered rude not to slurp. Oh, and don't forget to use your chopsticks to get the noodles into your mouth. It is also acceptable to bring your small bowl of food close to your face to eat, instead of bending your head down to get closer to your plate.
Is slurping noodles rude in Vietnam? ›
For example, it is usually considered polite to slurp or make noises while eating in Vietnam. This is especially true when it comes to eating noodles: slurping is the norm and there are many (good) reasons for this, all of which are related to taste, flavour, and general enjoyment of the food you're eating.”
Why do some cultures slurp their food? ›
Slurping began in Japanese culture about 400 years ago when soba noodles were first made. This eating technique enhanced the subtle flavor of the noodles while cooling down the sometimes hot broth. In Japan, slurp away your bowl of ramen or soba, and the louder you are the more appreciative you will sound.
In what culture is slurping rude? ›
#2 Japan. In many countries, slurping is seen as rude and irritating especially while eating or drinking. I am sure you remember hearing your parents say so when you were little.
Why do we slurp noodles? ›
Slurping also has a role. It helps cool the liquid, and aerates it, releasing a fuller expression of flavors. “With the hot soup, it's go go go: They say you have eight minutes in the soup before the noodle starts to overcook,” ramen expert Brian MacDuckston tells me.
Who invented slurping? ›
Unlike many other aspects of Japanese culture that have a long history, slurping is believed to have come about only 400 years ago when soba (buckwheat) noodles first formed their current shape and achieved the taste it has today and became one of the most popular fast foods in Edo (the former name of Tokyo).
Is slurping rude in America? ›
When consuming soup and hot liquids, it is considered impolite to slurp-do not do thisl When consuming noodles, twirl them around your fork and then put it in your mouth. If you are a man taking out a woman for dinner, you are almost always expected to pay.
Strange as it may sound, in Japan it is perfectly acceptable to loudly slurp your noodles while you're eating. The Japanese believe that slurping when eating noodles and soup, is the best way of displaying your appreciation of the food and the person who's cooked it.
What country is slurping acceptable? ›
1- Slurping is good
In Japan, slurping noodles is perfectly fine. It's an indication that the food is good.
Is slurping rude in Korea? ›
Most Koreans do not eat with a knife or fork. Slurping and belching are acceptable while dining, and is sometimes considered a sign of appreciation of the cooking. Tipping is not a part of the culture in Korea.
Is slurping noodles rude in Thailand? ›
Don't make noises while you eat. Unlike in some some Asian countries, slurping soups and noodles isn't a good idea. Don't forget to thank your host with a polite kawp khun khrap/kha ("thank you" male/female) at the end of the meal.
What is considered rude in Japan? ›
Pointing at people or things is considered rude in Japan. Instead of using a finger to point at something, the Japanese use a hand to gently wave at what they would like to indicate. When referring to themselves, people will use their forefinger to touch their nose instead of pointing at themselves.
What is disrespectful in Vietnamese culture? ›
Common taboos in Vietnam
Avoid hugging, holding hands, and especially kissing in public. Even touching a member of the opposite sex is looked down upon. Modesty: It is important to keep your body covered. Avoid overly short shorts and revealing shirts.
Does slurping make noodles taste better? ›
They gave them the same soup in mugs or bowls with spoon, and at two different temperatures. The participants were told to sip, rate the soup, then slurp and rate it. The researchers found that participants, who were preferred the soup when served in a mug compared to a bowl, and the flavor was fuller when slurping.
Is it disrespectful to not slurp your soup? ›
Noodles and soup are considered best when enjoyed loudly. Also, it's a sign of appreciation to the chef to slurp through your meal.
Is it polite to fart in any culture? ›
In almost all cultures, farting is considered distasteful, even odious. And yet it has remained a source of endless mirth for aeons, especially for males and children.
Where did the word slurp come from? ›
Etymology. From Middle Dutch slurpen, slorpen (“to sip, slurp”), from Old Dutch *slurpen, from Proto-Germanic *slarpaną (“to sip, slurp”), from Proto-Indo-European *srebʰ-, *srobʰ- (“to sip, slurp, gulp”).
: to make a sucking noise while eating or drinking. transitive verb. : to eat or drink noisily or with a sucking sound.
Is slurping eating or drinking? ›
If you slurp a liquid, you drink it noisily. He blew on his soup before slurping it off the spoon. A slurp is a noise that you make with your mouth when you drink noisily, or a mouthful of liquid that you drink noisily.
Is it polite to burp in China? ›
In China, burping isn't considered rude. In fact, it's actually a sign of gratitude to the cook and satisfaction with the meal. It's a great compliment, so don't be surprised when you hear a burp or two at the dining table.
Is slurping rude in England? ›
Leaning your elbows on the table whilst you are eating is also considered rude. Slurping or making other such loud noises whilst eating is completely frowned upon. As with yawning or coughing it is also considered very rude to chew open-mouthed or talk when there is still food in your mouth.
Is burping rude in Italy? ›
Don't burp: In some countries, for example in India, burping is a sign of satisfaction and satiety. But in Italy, it's unacceptable. Basically, you should avoid every loud sound—slurping is another good example.
What is considered rude in Asia? ›
It is important to be considerate of other people's dignity. Shaming or humiliating people in public is considered extremely rude. One should always use their right hand when shaking hands, offering a gift, handing or receiving something, eating, pointing or generally touching another person.
Is it rude to burp in Japan? ›
When eating from shared dishes (as it is commonly done at some restaurants such as izakaya), it is polite to use the opposite end of your chopsticks or dedicated serving chopsticks for moving food. Blowing your nose at the table, burping and audible munching are considered bad manners in Japan.
What country is it rude not to burp? ›
China. In China, burping is treated as any other bodily process, and after a meal, it can indeed serve as a compliment to the chef. It's probably China that originated the pervasive myth about complimentary burping abroad.
Is it rude to slurp in France? ›
Mind your manners
It never hurts to be polite and you don't want to run the risk of being considered a rude guest. Also, never eat with your mouth open or chew noisily. Don't slurp or burp either.
Why is it rude to slurp? ›
In the US it IS rude, and many people find it off-putting or actually disgusting. Nobody wants to see chewed-up food in others' mouths. I know lip-smacking, slurping, etc in some cultures is a sign of enjoyment, but here it is a clear sign of not having even the most basic table manners.
Farting leaves an unpleasant smell that lingers. That is simply rude and inconsiderate. Burping, however, is simply a sound of a body process. It is not by itself more unpleasant than any other sound, such as a fork hitting a plate.
Is it OK to slurp spaghetti? ›
Never ever slurp the ends of the pasta into your mouth. This is an amateur move and makes for awkward dining experiences in fine dining atmospheres. Instead, work on perfecting the fork technique above, and make sure that the pasta is tightly wound around your fork before you start to eat it.
What do Koreans say after eating? ›
After the meal, you can say 'jal meogeosseumnida' (잘 먹었습니다) to signal that you have indeed eaten well and are happy.
What is offensive in Thai culture? ›
Pointing at another person with one's index finger or feet is considered rude. The soles of one's feet should never be pointed at another person. One should sit in a way that avoids this. Feet should also not be rested on tables or pillows that people sleep on.
Is it polite to make a sound while eating noodles in Japan? ›
It is rude to make noise while eating as here in the U.S. but there are a few notable exceptions: when you eat Japanese noodles (soba, udon, ramen, somen, whatever), when you have miso soup.
What is a weird law in Thailand? ›
1) It's illegal to leave the house without your underwear on. 2) It's a crime to step on any Thai currency. 3) It's a punishable offence to throw (used) chewing gum on the pavement. 4) You mustn't drive a car shirtless. 5) It's a criminal offence to be critical of the king or other members of the Thai royal family.
Why is eye contact rude in Japan? ›
In fact, in Japanese culture, people are taught not to maintain eye contact with others because too much eye contact is often considered disrespectful. For example, Japanese children are taught to look at others' necks because this way, the others' eyes still fall into their peripheral vision [28].
Is it rude to say no in Japan? ›
The word for 'no' in Japanese is いいえ (iie) or the more familiar いや (iya). But to say or hear 'no' is generally uncomfortable for the Japanese. A negative response is often reformulated into a negative question where the verb's negative form is used.
What not to wear in Japan? ›
Also, keep in mind that tatty looking clothing can be frowned upon. Try to wear neat and well-maintained clothing, and keep yourself well-groomed. For example, holes in socks are a big no-no, because you spend lots of time without shoes on – visiting temples, shrines and traditional restaurants etc.
In what countries is slurping polite? ›
Strange as it may sound, in Japan it is perfectly acceptable to loudly slurp your noodles while you're eating. The Japanese believe that slurping when eating noodles and soup, is the best way of displaying your appreciation of the food and the person who's cooked it.
Chinese noodles originated in the Han dynasty, which has more than 4,000 years of history. There are many stories about the origin of noodles. To a certain extent, noodles also reflect the cultural traditions and customs of China, which essentially means “human nature” and “worldly common sense”.
Is burping rude in China? ›
Burping is polite
In China, burping isn't considered rude. In fact, it's actually a sign of gratitude to the cook and satisfaction with the meal. It's a great compliment, so don't be surprised when you hear a burp or two at the dining table.
What culture is slurp rude? ›
#2 Japan. In many countries, slurping is seen as rude and irritating especially while eating or drinking. I am sure you remember hearing your parents say so when you were little.
Is slurping disrespectful? ›
Slurping noodles or soup can offend the sensibilities of westerners at the dinner table. On the other hand, slurping noodles is a polite way to demonstrate your appreciation of a dish for many Asians, who see the sounds as a way of complementing the chef.
Is it rude to burp in America? ›
Eating Culture and Etiquette. In general, Americans eat quietly with their mouths closed. Burping is seen as rude, not as a compliment to the cook.
Where is it polite to fart after a meal? ›
Apparently it's polite to burp after a meal in China, and some Inuit groups in Canada don't mind when you fart because it shows that you enjoyed the meal.
What country is it polite to burp after a meal? ›
In China, burping is treated as any other bodily process, and after a meal, it can indeed serve as a compliment to the chef. It's probably China that originated the pervasive myth about complimentary burping abroad. Sometimes, this rule is conflated with a Japanese one that has to do with slurping.
Is it polite to burp after a meal in Germany? ›
While in other cultures, burping or smacking might be a signal that the food was good and enough, in Germany you try to eat as quietly as possible.
Which culture eats the most noodles? ›
China. China has more indigenous noodles than any country on Earth.
What is the history of noodles? ›
Origin. The earliest written record of noodles is found in a book dated to the Eastern Han period (25–220 CE). Noodles made from wheat dough became a prominent food for the people of the Han dynasty. The oldest evidence of noodles was from 4,000 years ago in China.
Cooking and eating together nourishes both body and spirit and is a tangible expression of the way we care for the people we love. Traditional recipes are carefully passed down from one generation to the next, and can also be an expression of cultural identity.
