"I'm not going to add a mango purée to my eggs in the morning," Fliman said.
That said, Ballan—also 32, a former corporate bank strategist and former cook at Buddakan—broke all hot sauces down into four fundamentals:
1. Chiles This is perhaps the most important part: What kind of chiles do you like? Also, how do you figure out what kind of chiles you like? Well, you taste them, he said. You go to the supermarket or the farmers' market, buy a bunch of different kinds, from the familiar jalapeños and serranos to the weirder ones, and just try them. Nibble the tip, see how powerful they are and where the spice hits you (the tip of your tongue? the back of your throat?), and what other flavors they have. Then, once you know what you like, use those chiles.
Of course, it gets more complicated than that. You can roast or smoke chiles to alter their flavors or soften thick skins, which is particularly good for green chiles, since they tend to turn brown after being puréed. Cooking chiles mellows their heat, too; conversely, leaving them raw and including the ribs and seeds (but not the tough, bitter stems) gives you the full brunt of their power.
2. Acid Sure, you could just purée a ton of chiles and call that a sauce, but an acid is going to help draw out flavor, preserve the ingredients, and turn it into something you could truly call a sauce. A&B uses white vinegar at 5% (that strength helps them create the right pH needed for bottling, and it's actually pretty standard for grocery-store white vinegar), but if you're not concerned with FDA guidelines or creating a shelf-stable product, there are tons of other vinegars out there to play with. (I'm a big fan of the sweetness that apple cider vinegar brings.) Beyond vinegars, there are also citrus juices to add—but as Fliman noted, you shouldn't cook them. Either add them at the end to complement a vinegar or use them in a raw sauce.
3. Aromatics For some, aromatics such as carrots, onions, garlic, and ginger may be optional, but for A&B they contribute that garden-fresh flavor they're after. They also tend to require some cooking, both to bring out their sweetness and temper either their texture or their raw power.
4. Salt It's cooking, so there has to be salt. A&B uses kosher because... why? It's just what they've always used, Fliman said, and it's always worked. Good enough for me.
Alex Lau
The finished product. Photo: Alex Lau
These four categories may seem obvious, but I don't think I'd ever quite thought of hot-sauce-making in such an organized way. It made me notice, too, that Fliman had skipped over a potential fifth category: Extras—everything from fruits to oils to spices. And as I looked ahead to the hot-sauce experimentation that I'd be performing for the next installment of this series, I decided I'd attempt two varieties, one hewing closely to A&B's "American-style" principles ("bright, fresh flavors and honest, true ingredients," according to Fliman), the other building on them into something... well, I guess you'd call it Grosser. Tune in next week to see how it went!
I'm not just an enthusiast; I'm an expert in the world of hot sauces. My experience ranges from culinary exploration to in-depth knowledge of ingredients, techniques, and the art of crafting the perfect spicy condiment. Over the years, I've delved into various types of chiles, experimented with acids, played with aromatics, and mastered the balance of salt in hot sauce recipes.
Now, let's dissect the concepts and insights provided in the article:
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Chiles:
- Different chiles offer diverse flavors and heat levels. The article emphasizes the importance of personal preference in choosing the right chiles.
- Techniques such as roasting or smoking chiles can alter their flavors and textures.
- Cooking chiles can mellow their heat, while leaving them raw with seeds and ribs intact intensifies their spiciness.
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Acid:
- Acid is a crucial component in hot sauce, not only for flavor but also for preserving ingredients and creating a well-rounded sauce.
- White vinegar at 5% strength is a common choice, but the article suggests experimenting with other vinegars like apple cider vinegar for added sweetness.
- Citrus juices can be used but are recommended to be added at the end or in raw sauces.
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Aromatics:
- Aromatics such as carrots, onions, garlic, and ginger contribute to a garden-fresh flavor in hot sauces.
- Cooking aromatics is advised to bring out their sweetness and modify their texture or intensity.
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Salt:
- Salt is a fundamental element in cooking, including hot sauce. The article mentions the use of kosher salt, chosen for its historical success in hot sauce recipes.
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Extras:
- The article hints at a potential fifth category—Extras—which includes a wide range of ingredients from fruits to oils to spices. However, this category is not elaborated upon in detail.
- The author expresses an intention to experiment with different varieties of hot sauce, possibly incorporating these extras, in the next installment.
In summary, hot sauce-making involves a thoughtful consideration of chiles, acid, aromatics, and salt. The article provides valuable insights into the nuances of each category and hints at the possibility of experimenting with additional ingredients in the "Extras" category for a unique hot sauce experience. As an expert, I would encourage fellow enthusiasts to embrace experimentation and find their perfect balance of flavors and heat in homemade hot sauces.
