Brown stock gets its color—and its flavor—from the initial step of roasting bones and vegetables, often with a bit of tomato paste added to promote browning and impart a caramelized flavor, as well as a touch of acidity. After the contents of the pan are transferred to a stockpot, the pan is deglazed (either with water or red wine) to incorporate all the flavorful browned bits, which then, too, get added to the pot. In classical French cooking, brown stock is made with veal bones to produce a delicate-bodied soup. In the recipe that follows, beef is added for deeper flavor, but you can replace the beef with more veal bones (or veal stew meat) for the traditional version. Brown stock can also be made with chicken (see variation); this would be ideal for using in more robust dishes, such as braised meats. Heed the general rules for making all stocks, including simmering very gently, skimming frequently, and keeping enough liquid in the pot so that everything is submerged at all times. Brown stock is also the basis for other classic preparations, including demi glace and glace de viande (see page 52).
Ingredients
Makes 31/2 quarts
For flavor base
4 pounds veal bones, such as knuckles and shin
2 pounds short ribs or oxtail (optional; add 3 more pounds of veal bones if not using)
3 tablespoons sunflower or other neutral-tasting oil
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 onions, unpeeled and quartered
2 celery stalks, each cut into thirds
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
4 garlic cloves
For deglazing pan
1 cup water or red wine
For aromatics
6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
4 sprigs thyme
2 dried bay leaves
2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns
Preparation
Step 1
Roast bones and vegetables Heat oven to 400°F. Arrange bones and beef in a single layer in a large heavy roasting pan. Drizzle with the oil and turn to coat. Roast, turning once and stirring often for even browning, until beginning to brown, about 45 minutes. Remove from oven, add tomato paste, and stir to combine. Cook over medium heat for about 30 seconds (to let it brown a little, which cooks out some of the acidity and intensifies the sweetness), then add vegetables, stirring well. Return to oven and roast until vegetables are browned and tender and bones are deeply browned, about 40 minutes.
Step 2
Deglaze pan Transfer bones and vegetables to a large stockpot, then spoon off fat from roasting pan and discard. Set the pan over two burners. Add the water or wine and bring to a boil, scraping up any brown bits from bottom with a wooden spoon fig. 1.1, boil until liquid is reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Pour everything into the stockpot.
Step 3
Make stock Add enough water (about 6 quarts) to stockpot to cover bones and vegetables by 2 inches. Bring to just under a boil, then reduce heat to a bare simmer (bubbles should just gently break at the surface). Add herbs and peppercorns and very gently simmer, uncovered, over low heat for 8 hours, adding more water as necessary to keep everything submerged.
Step 4
Strain stock Carefully pour stock through a fine sieve (do not press on solids) into a large heatproof bowl or another stockpot and discard solids. Stock will be dark brown. Skim off fat if using immediately, or let cool completely (in an ice-water bath, if desired) before transferring to airtight containers. Refrigerate at least 8 hours to allow the fat to accumulate at the top; lift off and discard fat before using or storing. Brown stock and its variations can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months; thaw completely in the refrigerator before using.
BROWN CHICKEN STOCK
Step 5
Follow the above recipe to roast the flavor base and deglaze the pan using 5 pounds chicken parts (backs, necks, and wings) in place of veal and beef; omit garlic and use only 1 tablespoon tomato paste. Then make stock, adding enough water to cover everything by about 1 inch (about 3 quarts). Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Add 1 dried bay leaf and 1 teaspoon peppercorns and cook 11/2 to 21/2 hours, skimming surface frequently. Strain, chill, and store as directed above. Makes 21/2 quarts.
Reprinted with permission from Martha Stewart's Cooking School: Lessons and Recipes for the Home Cook by Martha Stewart. Copyright © 2008 by Martha Stewart. Published by Crown Publishing. All Rights Reserved.Martha Stewart is the author of dozens of bestselling books on cooking, entertaining, gardening, weddings, and decorating. She is the host of The Martha Stewart Show, the Emmy-winning, daily national syndicated program, and founder of Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, which publishes several magazines, including Martha Stewart Living; produces Martha Stewart Living Radio, channel 112 on SIRIUS Satellite Radio; and provides a wealth of ideas and information on www.marthastewart.com.
