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Pairing wine with food can be an intricate, complex process. Trying to find a wine that goes with everything can be even more difficult. And let’s not forget different palates and preferences, which further complicate the matter.
So does a wine exist that really “goes with anything”? We’ve all heard the phrase “Champagne goes with everything,” but let’s face it—champagne and steak just don’t work together. Then there’s Château d’Yquem, which is famous for dinners that feature different vintages of its heralded wine with a multicourse menu, from salad through dessert. (Sadly, I can’t comment on how well that works, but I have my doubts.)
While there’s probably not a specific wine that goes with everything, there are a few styles that are incredibly versatile. Here are a few of my go-tos and some producers that always rock.
Super Friulian: Rarely does Italy get much attention for its white wines, as most of them are overshadowed by the glorious reds of Piedmont and Tuscany. The concept of the “Super Friulian” white has begun to emerge in the spirit of the great “Super Tuscan” reds and has produced amazing vintages, such as the 2007 Jermann Vintage Tunina. With a wide array of grapes—including sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana, and Picolit—it’s no wonder this wine can handle a range of foods: It’s floral and intense, with notes of concentrated citrus and bruised apples and pears that leave a long, delicate finish.
Rosé: If you’re ever asked to provide a wine and don’t know whether red or white is appropriate, grab the closest thing to both—rosé. It possesses characteristics of both colors of wine, so its ability to complement a wide range of foods is almost unmatched. Rosés are popping up everywhere these days, and my favorites hail from Burgundy, such as the 2010 Domaine Bart Marsannay rosé, 100 percent pinot noir with a light-pink color and bright and fresh fruit flavors of cherries, white strawberries, melon, peach, and a hint of cola. Contrary to popular belief, men are allowed to drink rosé—so just do it.
Riesling: I’ve long said that Riesling may be the most versatile white out there. With a bracing acidity and lovable character, it has a slightly off-dry style that goes with salads, fish, fowl, soup, pork, and veal. This style you will find in German Spätleses, Alsace wines from Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, and Smaragd-level wines from Austria’s Wachau Valley. If you can find the 2009 Spreitzer Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese, you will be rewarded with luscious orchard fruits of apples, tangerines, and apricots, with a touch of sweetness and brilliant acidity.
All of the above wines are available at The Wine & Cheese Place’s Clayton location.
