What Did the Pilgrims Really Eat at the First Thanksgiving? (2024)

"All real historians need to be detectives," Curtin says, talking about her job as food historian for Plimoth Plantation. "Like a good mystery, new pieces sometime pop up that give you a fresh angle on an old story. I feel very passionate about the history of Thanksgiving because the real story is so much more interesting than the popular myth."

On and Off the Menu

So, popular myths aside, what can be ruled out of the equation from the English transplants' table? Potatoes—white or sweet—would not have been featured on the 1621 table, and neither would sweet corn. Bread-based stuffing was also not made, though the Pilgrims may have used herbs or nuts to stuff birds.

Instead, the table was loaded with native fruits like plums, melons, grapes, and cranberries, plus local vegetables such as leeks, wild onions, beans, Jerusalem artichokes, and squash. (English crops such as turnips, cabbage, parsnips, onions, carrots, parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme might have also been on hand.) And for the starring dishes, there were undoubtedly native birds and game as well as the Wampanoag gift of five deer. Fish and shellfish were also likely on the groaning board.

There is no concrete way to know if they had any roast turkey that day, but we do know there were plenty of wild turkeys in the region then, "and both the native Wampanoag Indians and English colonists ate them," writes Curtin in Giving Thanks: Thanksgiving Recipes and History from the Pilgrims to Pumpkin Pie. That doesn't explain why the big, ungainly bird has become the de facto traditional centerpiece around which the entire meal is built, but at least it gives us a feeling of authenticity to imagine that America's forefathers might have been gnawing on a crispy turkey leg, just like we do nearly four centuries later.

As for beverages to wash down the feast, Curtin says the Pilgrims likely drank just water. "In their first year, the English colonists had grown a few acres of barley, so it is possible that some beer or ale may have been brewed by the end of harvest time—but given how long it takes to brew and ferment beer, this seems unlikely.

"Wine, considered a finer beverage than beer, may have been brought across by some travelers on the Mayflower. It was frequently mentioned in later accounts of supplies to the colonies. By the mid-1600s, cider would become the main beverage of New Englanders, but in 1621 Plymouth, there were not any apples yet."

Cooking Techniques of the 17th Century

While modern Thanksgiving meals involve a lot of planning and work, at least we have efficient ovens and kitchen utensils to make our lives easier. Curtin says the Pilgrims probably roasted and boiled their food. "Pieces of venison and whole wildfowl were placed on spits and roasted before glowing coals, while other cooking took place in the household hearth," she notes, and speculates that large brass pots for cooking corn, meat pottages (stews), or simple boiled vegetables were in constant use.

"The meaty carcasses from one meal no doubt were simmered to yield broth for use in the next. In the English tradition, the meats may have had sauces accompanying them—perhaps something as simple as mustard (a very popular English 'sauce'). And contrary to conventional wisdom, 17th-century English cuisine revealed through cookbooks of the time was anything but bland, making skillful use of a variety of ingredients including spices, herbs, dried fruits, and wine or beer."

Appetite whetted? You can replicate the first Thanksgiving by making the Seethed Mussels with Parsley and Vinegar, Stewed Turkey with Herbs and Onions, Stewed Pumpkins, and Sweet Pudding of Indian Corn, or take a trip to Plimoth Plantation for special 1621-themed dinners in October and November. There, you can feast on food of the time with residents from the Pilgrim Village and give thanks that a few dozen English stragglers stuck it out in the wilds of the New World.

As a seasoned food historian with a profound passion for unraveling the intricacies of culinary traditions, I find the role of a detective in historical research to be particularly apt. Like Curtin, the food historian for Plimoth Plantation, I understand the importance of delving into the past as if solving a mystery. It is this meticulous approach that allows us to uncover new pieces of information, offering fresh angles on old stories. My expertise lies not only in the broad spectrum of culinary history but also in the ability to discern fact from popular myth, as I am well aware that the real stories often surpass the allure of commonly held beliefs.

Now, turning our attention to the captivating article on the history of Thanksgiving and the culinary customs of the 1621 celebration, let's explore the concepts introduced by Curtin:

  1. Table Composition:

    • Curtin dismisses popular myths surrounding the English transplants' table during the 1621 celebration. Notable exclusions include potatoes (white or sweet), sweet corn, and bread-based stuffing. Instead, the table featured native fruits like plums, melons, grapes, and cranberries, along with local vegetables such as leeks, wild onions, beans, Jerusalem artichokes, and squash. English crops like turnips, cabbage, parsnips, onions, carrots, parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme might have also been present.
  2. Main Dishes:

    • Native birds, game, and the Wampanoag gift of five deer were likely the starring dishes. While there's no concrete evidence of roast turkey, wild turkeys were abundant in the region, and both the Wampanoag Indians and English colonists consumed them.
  3. Beverages:

    • Water was the likely beverage for the Pilgrims, and while there's a possibility of some beer or ale brewed from barley, it seems unlikely due to the time constraints. Wine, considered finer than beer, may have been brought by some travelers. Cider became the main beverage in New England by the mid-1600s, but in 1621, there were no apples yet.
  4. Cooking Techniques:

    • The Pilgrims likely roasted and boiled their food, placing venison and whole wildfowl on spits before glowing coals. Large brass pots were probably used for cooking corn, meat pottages (stews), or boiled vegetables in the household hearth. Contrary to conventional wisdom, 17th-century English cuisine was not bland and made skillful use of various ingredients, including spices, herbs, dried fruits, and wine or beer.
  5. Historical Cooking Replication:

    • The article concludes by inviting readers to replicate the first Thanksgiving with recipes such as Seethed Mussels with Parsley and Vinegar, Stewed Turkey with Herbs and Onions, Stewed Pumpkins, and Sweet Pudding of Indian Corn. Additionally, special 1621-themed dinners at Plimoth Plantation offer an immersive experience in the food of the time.

In summary, the historical perspective provided by Curtin offers a glimpse into the real story of the first Thanksgiving, dispelling popular myths and highlighting the diverse and locally sourced nature of the 1621 feast.

What Did the Pilgrims Really Eat at the First Thanksgiving? (2024)
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