'Too Ethnic'? Here's Why Rice is Life for Filipinos (2024)

A tweet that accused rice of being a saboteur to the ascent of Filipino cuisine on the world stage united netizens in defending the staple grain, underscoring how in a diverse nation of 109 million people, rice is life.

It's a staple for breakfast, lunch, to dinner, and sometimes even for snacks. No proud Filipino will eat the country's unofficial national dishes adobo and sinigang without piping hot rice. So it was no surprise that netizens saw slander in describing rice as "too ethnic".

Why is rice life for Filipinos? The answer is both cultural and socioeconomic but to simplify: It's Philippine society on a plate.

Rice fills the tank

For tricycle driver Joseph Marindo, the lack of rice means hunger. He makes sure to buy kilos upon kilos of the grain daily to feed his family of three for an entire day. Never mind the lack of meat or vegetables. For Marindo, rice is the priority and the first thing he needs to provide for his home.

"Hindi puwedeng walang bigas. Ayos lang yung walang ulam pero hindi puwedeng walang kanin kasi gutom aabutin," he told reportr.

"Mabigat kasi sa tiyan [ang kanin] at matagal bago magutom ulit," he said of the grain, noting the many ways to cook rice if there is a lack of meat such as by mixing it with instant noodles.

In a country where nearly half of the population view themselves as poor, rice is the default choice for a meal because it's tummy filler--a high-carb food. When money is limited, keeping stomachs full for a longer period of time is a must.

"Rice remains crucial for commensality in Philippine households. Among the poorest, rice will suffice to constitute a meal," according to the study “Rice in the Filipino Diet and Culture” by Filomeno Aguilar Jr. and published by the Philippine Institute for Development Studies.

"Rice therefore stands for the 'we' even in the poorest of families," it added.

For households facing a scarcity in vegetables, meat, or fish, rice can be cooked as porridge or lugaw with salt. It can be steamed and served plain with soy sauce for taste. For those with extra cash to spare, rice can be served as merienda too such as native delicacies biko and suman. You can also turn it into champorado or coco porridge.

"Rice is integral to the Filipino concept of a meal. It is the basis of commensality, defining small local entities, particularly the household and its associated relations," the PIDS study said.

Rice is a status symbol

The variety of rice one serves or eats tells of one's economic standing.

Families strapped for cash for instance often buy the cheaper NFA rice which has been criticized time and time again for its poor quality. Then there's Dinorado and Milagrosa rice which are a step higher than the NFA rice.

For the middle-class families, high aromatic rice varieties such as Sinandomeng is the choice. The rich go a step higher opting for imported Japanese rice or Jasmine rice.

As explained in the PIDS study, the rich prefer rice that is soft and aromatic, while poor families prefer rice that expands well and takes longer to digest so that those who eat it feel fuller longer.

"Pag may bigas kasi, ayos na. Sigurado ka na hindi kayo magugutom. Ang mahalaga may laman ang tiyan," tricycle driver Marindo said.

The presence of unli-rice fast-food chains such as Mang Inasal, and free extra rice promos in some diners also prove how rice defines the Filipino meal.

Rice is part of tradition

More than its role on the dinner table, rice is also ingrained in Philippine tradition.

Newlyweds get showered with grains of rice as a sign of blessing, and, as custom dictates, the presence of rice is needed too before moving into a new home to ward off evil spirits.

Many provinces across the country also celebrate rice festivals such as the Pahiyas in Quezon, and the Sinanggiyaw in Cebu--a testament to the deep relationship between Filipinos and the grain.

"Rice retains symbolic significance for many Filipinos, at least within small groups," the PIDS study noted.

So the next time one thinks of why Filipinos are a rice-loving people, remember that the grain has deep roots in the country and as the PIDS study noted, "the purchase, consumption, and enjoyment of rice are inseparable from the large socioeconomic disparities of Philippine society."

As someone deeply immersed in the study and appreciation of Filipino culture and cuisine, particularly the role of rice in the country's daily life, I bring forth a wealth of knowledge and a genuine passion for this subject. My understanding extends beyond the surface, delving into the cultural, socioeconomic, and symbolic aspects of rice in the Philippines.

The tweet that accused rice of sabotaging the ascent of Filipino cuisine on the world stage reflects a misunderstanding of the profound significance of rice in the country. The united defense by netizens underscores the emotional attachment Filipinos have to this staple grain, emphasizing its centrality in their lives.

In the diverse nation of 109 million people, rice is not just a food item but a way of life. It serves as a staple for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and even snacks, highlighting its ubiquity in the Filipino diet. No proud Filipino would conceive of enjoying national dishes like adobo and sinigang without the accompaniment of piping hot rice.

The article delves into the multifaceted reasons why rice is indispensable for Filipinos, blending cultural and socioeconomic factors. For individuals like tricycle driver Joseph Marindo, the lack of rice equates to hunger. In a country where almost half the population considers themselves poor, rice becomes the default choice for a meal due to its ability to keep stomachs full for an extended period, especially when money is limited.

The study "Rice in the Filipino Diet and Culture" by Filomeno Aguilar Jr., published by the Philippine Institute for Development Studies (PIDS), serves as a key reference. It emphasizes the communal nature of rice consumption, stating that rice stands for the 'we' even in the poorest of families, playing a crucial role in commensality.

Furthermore, the type of rice consumed becomes a status symbol, reflecting one's economic standing. Cheaper NFA rice is often chosen by cash-strapped families, while the middle class might opt for aromatic rice varieties like Sinandomeng. The rich, on the other hand, may prefer imported Japanese or Jasmine rice, showcasing the socioeconomic disparities mirrored in rice choices.

Beyond its role as a food item, rice is deeply ingrained in Philippine tradition. Rituals such as showering newlyweds with rice symbolize blessings, and the presence of rice is deemed necessary when moving into a new home to ward off evil spirits. Various provinces celebrate rice festivals, emphasizing the deep connection between Filipinos and the grain.

In conclusion, the article eloquently captures the essence of rice in the Philippines, portraying it not just as a dietary staple but as a cultural symbol, a socioeconomic indicator, and a tradition deeply embedded in the Filipino way of life. The PIDS study serves as a scholarly foundation, affirming the inseparability of rice from the socioeconomic disparities within Philippine society.

'Too Ethnic'? Here's Why Rice is Life for Filipinos (2024)
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