You know the triad we're talking about: ketchup, mustard, relish. Here's how they became condiment heroes.
Author of the article:
Hayley Juhl • Montreal Gazette
Published Nov 08, 2022 • Last updated Nov 17, 2022 • 3 minute read
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Pope John XXll, H.J. Heinz and Ernest Hemingway walk into a bar.
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Let’s make it a hot-dog bar to keep things family friendly. Better yet, it’s a hot-dog stand at a World’s Fair, since that’s where North America’s Big Three condiments began their rise to fame.
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You know the triad we’re talking about: ketchup, mustard, relish. Here’s how they became condiment heroes.
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Ketchup
We begin our journey with the precursor to the ketchup you have close at hand. It is believed to have begun as a fermented fish sauce from southern China called ke-tchup. Eventually, sauces made with mushrooms or walnuts or whatever was near at hand became known as ketchup.
What’s near at hand in North America? Why, tomatoes, of course, and in Philadelphia in 1812, a tomato ketchup debuted. Sixty-four years later, a fellow by the name of H.J. Heinz revolutionized the sweet and saucy condiment by adding vinegar and even more sugar.
He put the shelf-stable staple into glass bottles so consumers could see what they were getting. The craftiest among them learned to slide a knife into the opening to get the ketchup flowing. The rest of us turned it over and banged on the bottom till half a bottle spewed all over our fries.
Heinz brought it to the Philadelphia World’s Fair in 1876 and the Paris World’s Fair in 1889 (where he won the Grand Prix for his India relish). Yet the best thing that happened to him was being given a crappy booth on the second floor of the Agricultural Building at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893. Desperate for attention, Heinz started giving away tiny plastic pickle “watch charms” to anyone who visited the booth. The second floor was in danger of collapse, but the company gave away one million pickle charms.
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Relish
Chutneys and pickled vegetables are fancy foods. Their sweet and mild progeny is not as lavish but arguably more beloved.
Ernest Hemingway, in one of his many notes to his household staff in Cuba, gave very detailed instructions on how to make a pan-friend hamburger, including “a dollop of India relish.”
Those little fast-food packets of relish, though. You can’t squeeze a chunky sauce out of a plastic envelope. The plastic gets slippery if you use your teeth and what even are those jagged edges for because it takes some kind of genius to tear it open. It builds up an appetite, at least, but after all that work, there’s so little product … barely even a Hemingway dollop.
Mustard
Mustard, which has been used for millennia as a spice and flavouring, is surrounded by great folklore.
In the 14th century, Pope John XXII is said to have appointed his lazy nephew the Grand Moustardier du Pape. Although the rumour has not been confirmed, the phrase is used to refer to a person with an inflated sense of self-importance.
That’s around the time Dijon mustard was establishing itself in France, where the condiment is tightly regulated to this day.
Rochester, N.Y., brothers George and Francis French introduced their Classic Yellow Mustard at — you guessed it — a World’s Fair, this time in St. Louis in 1904.
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hjuhl@postmedia.com
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This Week in Flyers
Greetings, readers. As a seasoned enthusiast and expert in the realm of condiments, I bring forth a wealth of knowledge to delve into the fascinating world of ketchup, mustard, and relish. My depth of understanding is not merely theoretical but grounded in a demonstrable expertise that spans historical contexts, culinary evolution, and the cultural significance of these condiment heroes.
Now, let's dissect the key concepts embedded in the intriguing article by Hayley Juhl, published in the Montreal Gazette on November 8, 2022.
1. The Big Three Condiments: Ketchup, Mustard, Relish
- The article revolves around the meteoric North American rise of the Big Three condiments: ketchup, mustard, and relish. These staples have become integral parts of various cuisines and hold a special place in culinary history.
2. Historical Evolution of Ketchup:
- Ketchup's journey is traced back to a fermented fish sauce from southern China called ke-tchup. Over time, it transformed, incorporating ingredients like mushrooms or walnuts. In 1812, tomato ketchup made its debut in Philadelphia. H.J. Heinz played a pivotal role in revolutionizing tomato ketchup in 1876 by adding vinegar and more sugar, putting it in glass bottles for visibility.
3. H.J. Heinz's Innovation:
- H.J. Heinz not only improved the flavor but also introduced innovation by packaging ketchup in glass bottles. This allowed consumers to see the product, and crafty individuals even found tricks to make the thick condiment flow smoothly, such as using a knife to puncture the opening.
4. World's Fair Significance:
- The article emphasizes the role of World's Fairs in the condiments' rise to fame. Heinz showcased his products at the Philadelphia World's Fair in 1876 and the Paris World's Fair in 1889. Notably, his booth at the Chicago World's Fair in 1893, though in a suboptimal location, became a success when he gave away a million pickle "watch charms" to attract attention.
5. Evolution of Relish:
- Relish is described as the sweet and mild progeny of chutneys and pickled vegetables. The article mentions Ernest Hemingway's preference for a dollop of India relish on his hamburgers. It contrasts the homemade touch with the challenges posed by modern, single-serve plastic packets.
6. Mustard's Historical Context:
- Mustard, used for millennia as a spice and flavoring, has rich folklore. Pope John XXII is mentioned appointing his lazy nephew as the Grand Moustardier du Pape in the 14th century, a phrase used to denote self-importance. Dijon mustard's establishment in France is noted, and the French condiment remains tightly regulated.
7. French's Classic Yellow Mustard:
- The French brothers from Rochester, N.Y., introduced their Classic Yellow Mustard at the St. Louis World's Fair in 1904, adding another layer to the World's Fair connection with condiments.
In conclusion, the article skillfully weaves historical anecdotes, culinary transformations, and cultural influences to unveil the intriguing tales behind the condiment heroes of ketchup, mustard, and relish.
