Food lovers have come to the rescue of Singapore’s pandemic-hit hawkers, but is it enough to save them?
Tables covered in plastic sheeting, red and white tape cordoning off areas, stall fronts neatly shuttered—some temporary, some for good. Singapore’s once-bustling hawker centers have seen better days.
Gone are the snaking queues of diners waiting patiently for their fix of Michelin-starred soya sauce chicken. Missing are the office workers carefully tucking into bowls of spicy laksa. Absent are the groups of elderly who would regularly commune over a cup of kopi (local coffee) and roti prata (flaky South Indian flatbread cooked on a griddle). All that’s left are the hawkers standing idly by, waiting for regulars to drop in or for the odd online delivery order to ping through.
The hawker center is a staple of everyday life in Singapore. There are over 100 of them scattered across the city-state. While these no-frills, open-air food courts are humble in appearance and offerings—bowls of minced meat noodles go for as little as $2, while 50 cents will get you a generous slice of crispy peanut pancake—its value is immeasurable. Feeding everyone from billionaire tycoons to starving students, the freshly-prepared meals are so good they’ve earned loyal customers that span decades. In short, hawkers are an integral part of Singapore’s culture. Even seasoned world travelers have not been immune to its charms. The late Anthony Bourdain was once quoted as saying,“[hawker food] is the number one reason to come to Singapore.”
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So integral is it to Singapore’s landscape that in December 2020, Singapore’s hawker culture was added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, an award that focuses on the knowledge, practices, and intangible contribution to a country’s culture. Ironically, ongoing pandemic measures may cause a portion of hawker talent to be lost forever, especially those that rely heavily on dine-in orders and the elderly stalwarts who are without a digital and online delivery presence. To save Singapore’s hawkers, a group of self-proclaimed foodies is turning toward social media and technology.
How the Pandemic Is Impacting Singapore’s Hawkers
“Hawkers in Singapore are in a fragile state. They survive by selling food in a developed nation with developing nation prices,” explains K.F. Seetoh, founder and chief executive of the food guide, Makansutra. “$3.70 [still] gets you a complete and comforting heritage meal with drinks, even today.”
The widely regarded godfather of Singapore’s hawker culture took to his Facebook page in May 2021, when dining restrictions were reintroduced for a month, imploring Singaporeans to support hawkers that remain offline due to either cost or a lack of digital-savvy. To support the city’s local hawkers, Seetoh began video walkabouts that highlight the plight of lesser-known hawkers who—despite the lack of business—were showing every day to await customers, despite takings being as little as 20 percent of what they were pre-COVID.
While restrictions have since eased to allow for two diners per table in June and subsequently were enforced again inmid-July for a month, business remains slow. “The noise has generated a movement,” shared Seetoh, who has been involved in government-level discussions on how hawkers can digitalize and boost business sustainability. “A lot are doing their bid, from buying physically to bulk buys for the family. Even the authorities are taking note and paying attention to the matter.”
While there’s no magic bullet solution, Seetoh believes hawkers should be “ring-fenced by the government and given special treatment so they can continue to offer these traditional dishes at these affordable prices. Seetoh also believes Singapore’s hawkers should be given a special online, not-for-profit platform to help with delivery demands.
Mapping the City’s Local Hawkers
Until a sustainable solution is found, many Singaporeans are finding their own way of supporting local hawkers. For Thiru—an active Redditor who goes by the username u/waffleboy92—the thought of losing decades of hawker heritage prompted him to create a Google Maps titled Help Our Hawkers! The one-click, sharable, and crowd-sourced map allows users to view over 360 hawkers’ precise location, their background story, and food type. The map has been viewed over 100,000 times in less than a month.
“Hawker fare is what I grew up with and survived on. Personally, hawker food is one aspect that’s an iconic part of Singapore’s culture and heritage, and it represents love and sacrifice,” muses Thiru. “Hawkers have fed us at insanely cheap prices (compared to most other developed countries) for decades, toiling away since the early morning to prepare the meals. We live off of their hard work. To me, it represents culture and sustenance.” Thiru hopes that his map will eventually serve as an archive of Singapore’s hawker history at a glance.
Using Instagram to Celebrate the Stories of Hawkers
Taking a different approach, the sisters behind the popular Instagram account @wheretodapao, combined a visually engaging aesthetic with crowd-sourced posts to get people canvassing support for the city’s elderly hawkers. The combination worked, generating over 37.4K followers to date, numerous submissions, tie-ups with corporate brands, and live meal buys. By focusing on re-telling the stories of neighborhood hawkers in a style reminiscent of the popular book and Instagram account, @humansofny, their page has evolved into an unofficial repository of Singapore’s hawker history while helping locals decide where to “da pao” (local slang for takeaway).
“We have had multiple stories on how elderly hawkers continue to persevere even with sales declining as much as 80%,” shared co-founder, Jacquelyn Ng. “These hawkers have a strong sense of tradition and simply wish to allow more people to taste foods cooked in more traditional ways (for example, Teochew braised duck). Some hawkers also hang on because of a particular group of people. For instance, a kueh stall owner kept going because there was a 90-year-old woman who would buy traditional kueh from the stall, daily. The hawker says that if she stops, she ‘would be very sad and lost.’ These stories touch us because they depict the heart of the hawkers.”
Saving Singapore’s Ailing Hawker Culture
These narratives, and particularly the nostalgia it triggers, have inspired vlogger Gregory Leow of Greg’s Big Eats to film over 150 videos (and counting) documenting Singapore’s rich hawker heritage. A passion project he’s worked on since 2016, his YouTube channel covers everything from in-depth hawker center guides (if you only have time for one, watch the Chinatown Complex series) to the infamous Hup Kee Fried Oyster Omelette, down to discussing the origins of the messy-but-beloved dish of sup tulang (stewed mutton bones in a spicy red soup).
INSIDER TIPIf you are headed to Singapore, Leow recommends a visit to Claypot & Cooked Food Kitchen for traditional Cantonese cuisine, or Koung’s Wan Tan Mee for the best old-school wanton mee.
Leow’s hawker p*rn/food history approach is a deliberate one as he wanted to “learn about the craft, learn about hawker food, and in the process, give viewers objective and unbiased reviews.” For Leow, hawker food also functions as a “peek into what Singapore’s yesteryears were like.” While he echoes the need for government support, innovation, and upskilling, he sees present-day issues as a problem that started long before the pandemic.
“[The pandemic] just exacerbated what was already a problem, which is that the hawker population is declining and few people want to be hawkers because of the long hours and lower pay,” explains Leow, pointing to popular street food spots like Johor Bahru, Malaysia, and the city of Hong Kong with its free-market pricing as a possible model to follow. “There’s a limit to the help people can give via social media and the government handouts. If you’re a business, you have to adapt to new conditions and engage in social media and delivery apps if you want to survive. You have to change the food (since hawker food isn’t meant to be eaten takeaway), and you have to invest the time for Facebook and delivery apps and factor in the price change. But on the flip side, it’s hard to ask older hawkers to do that. For older hawkers (or any person), learning a new skill is not so easy. It’s like asking a retired banker or PR person to learn how to be a hawker, there’ll be a steep learning curve, and few can make the switch.”
INSIDER TIPSome other local hawker stalls that Leow recommends include Ghim Moh Chwee Kueh for their chwee kueh (Teochew for steamed “water” cake), Zhong Pin Noodle House for their Sarawak-style laksa and kolo mee, or Hougang 6 Miles Famous Muah Chee for their handmade muah chee (pan-fried rice balls covered in ground peanuts and sugar).
Ultimately, it’s clear permanent changes are needed for Singapore’s hawker culture to survive and thrive. Following the outpouring of support, a new workgroup (the SG Together Alliance for Action – Online Ordering for Hawkers) chaired by Singapore’s Ministry of Sustainability and the Environment and the Ministry of Communications and Information has been put together to offer education and support for hawkers to get onto online delivery platforms and help them supplement and expand their customer base. It’s a step in the right direction and hopefully one that gives a permanent boost to Singapore’s ailing hawker culture.
“If we are not careful and aware, hawker culture may lose its UNESCO status in six years, and we won’t be able to capitalize on this on the world stage,” says Seetoh. “Our hawker food culture is the one true culture we have left. There’s not a language, music, true Singapore festivals, costumes, etc. Without this iconic hawker food culture which is for, of, and by the people, we are just a rich nation of human bricks in the wall.”
One recommendation is to set up a Digital Support for Hawkers (DSH) group, comprising passionate individuals from the community or hawkers, to support local hawker centres. The DSH group will provide peer support to help less digitally savvy hawkers embrace digital opportunities.
It's easy, just purchase and appreciate their food. There are various Facebook groups like Hawkers United: Dabao 2020 and Can Eat! Hawker Food for you to share your favourite stalls and unearth hidden gems. To enjoy fuss-free selections, WhyQ and#SupportLocalSG are great delivery options.
To preserve our hawker heritage, he believes the next generation of hawkers must first nail down the original recipes and then strive to "re-express" and improve on not just the dishes, but also the aesthetics of the food and the stalls.
As a society, Singaporeans need to value the hawker culture that we have. It needs to start with our kids by encouraging them to eat hawker food and be proud of our local cuisine,” Tay explained. “You can't save an entire culture simply by giving incentives.
The stallholders will separate food waste from other waste and store it in their food waste bins. When the bin is full, the stallholder will bring it to the bin centre of the hawker centre, where the food waste recycling machine is housed, and transfer the food waste into a larger food waste storage bin for recycling.
They face problems of eviction, bribe payment, inability to access various government facilities, lack of facilities such as toilet, lighting, etc., lack of social security and other similar hurdles. In a city like Delhi, where 2.5% of the population consists of street vendors, they find it difficult to survive.
Previously hawkers were not allowed to sell their articles on the streets. Now hawking zones have been suggested for the hawkers to move freely. They have been made members of the committees which think about their welfare.
Today, hawker centres are an integral part of Singaporeans' way of life. They are spread across our island and serve as “community dining rooms”, where friends and families gather, interact and bond over their shared love for food.
As a small island nation, Singapore lacks natural resources — it imports more than 90% of its food from more than 170 countries and regions. With the country vulnerable to many external headwinds, the government launched a “30 by 30” initiative to produce 30% of its nutritional needs by 2030.
Culture can be preserved : By visiting a museum and going on tour to the cultural sites. Reading literature and poem on the culture of the place. Imparting cultural knowledge to the next generation.
To minimise pathogenic bacteria – food in long-term storage is at serious risk of spoilage due to bacteria such as E. coli, Salmonella, and other pathogens. Bacteria only need warmth, moisture, and time to rapidly multiply in food, but food preservation inhibits one or more of these conditions and stops their growth.
They also serve as vibrant communal spaces that promote social cohesion, moderate the cost of living and foster a common national identity based on shared experiences, values, and norms.
Yes, but perhaps not as we know it. With hawker culture set to be listed in UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage list, CNA takes a look at the challenge of getting a new generation to embrace the trade - not just the food.
SFA has put in place regulatory levers along the food supply chain like licensing, inspection, sampling, testing and enforcement. Overseas Imports – Food importers are licensed by SFA, and are required to apply for import permits for each consignment of food imported into Singapore.
Increasing local food production requires a basket of solutions, such as increasing research and development in agriculture, adopting precision agriculture with better pesticides and fertiliser management (and drone technology), and adopting climate-smart agriculture with higher-yield crops that use less water.
One essential component in the common solutions to food insecurity is assisting locals with the sustainable management of local natural resources through soil conservation, water harvesting, rehabilitating irrigation systems and reducing the loss of biodiversity.
Giving more people benefits through nutrition assistance programs, increasing benefit amounts, and addressing unemployment may help reduce food insecurity and hunger.
Donate excess food to the needy via organisations such as the Food Bank Singapore , Food from the Heart , Fei Yue Community Services and Willing Hearts .
Pickling, drying, canning, fermenting, freezing and curing are all methods you can use to make food last longer, thus reducing waste. Not only will these methods shrink your carbon footprint, they will save you money as well. What's more, most preservation techniques are simple and can be fun.
The most effective way to reduce greenhouse gas emissions from the food system is to change what we eat. Adopting a more plant-based diet by reducing our consumption of carbon-intensive foods such as meat and dairy – especially beef and lamb – is an effective way for consumers to reduce their carbon footprint.
Solutions :1) Authorities should provide licence to the vendors so that they can be protected by harassment and eviction by local authorities. 2) Some street vendors are food vendors, they have not received formal training as they are less educated while selling ready food.
Eviction, Harassment, bribery, lack of water source, un-stability, poor socio-economic condition and knowledge of vendors were the common factors influencing their practices. ...
Unlicensed street vendors occupy public spaces and traditional markets, creating problems for residents, pedestrians, formal retailers, and public authorities. They sometimes cause conflicts in society, potentially leading to violence (Tonda and Kepe, 2016).
In a new scheme called the Pradhan Mantri Street Vendors Atmanirbhar Nidhi (PM SVANidhi), the central government is extending Rs 10,000 loan as working capital to street vendors to restart their businesses which have been hit by the Covid-19 pandemic.
The Street Vendors (protection of Livelihood and Regulation of street vending) Act, 2014 has been passed with the aims at protecting the livelihoods of street vendors and regulating their activities by demarcating the vending zones and has put up conditions and restrictions on Street Vending.
There are a number of parasites that are spread through contaminated food and water. These include Echinococcus spp., Ascaris, Cryptosporidium, Entamoeba histolytica, and Giardia. Most of these infections cause gastric problems.
A hawker is a vendor of merchandise that can be easily transported; the term is roughly synonymous with costermonger or peddler. In most places where the term is used, a hawker sells inexpensive goods, handicrafts, or food items.
Most street vendors provide the main source of income for their households, bringing food to their families and paying school fees for their children. These informal workers have strong linkages to the formal economy. Over half of the interviewed workers said they source the goods they sell from formal enterprises.
The more food we waste, the more we need to source to meet rising demands. The Covid-19 pandemic has cast a spotlight on the issue of food security worldwide, including Singapore. An important step to boosting Singapore's resilience against any supply shocks is reducing food wastage.
During the COVID-19 pandemic, logistics in food value chains such as transportation, warehousing, procurement, packaging, and inventory management have been disrupted, adversely impacting the quantity of food available and its quality, freshness, safety, access to markets, and affordability (FAO, 2020).
The best way to preserve your cultural heritage, whatever it may be, is to share it with others. Cultural heritage and natural history of a nation has a very high value and is unique. It is an identity that can be introduced to the world.
Freezing is a good way to store bacteria. Generally, the colder the storage temperature, the longer the culture will retain viable cells. Freezers can be split into three categories: laboratory, ultralow, and cryogenic. The problem faced by bacteria (and other cells) stored in freezers is ice crystals.
A perfect way to preserve your traditions is to continue practicing them in your new home. There is nothing better than sharing the traditions you love with friends or colleagues in your new home. You can do this by bringing homemade treats to your office or hosting traditional events with new friends.
Among the oldest methods of preservation are drying, refrigeration, and fermentation. Modern methods include canning, pasteurization, freezing, irradiation, and the addition of chemicals. Advances in packaging materials have played an important role in modern food preservation.
Canning, drying, and freezing allow you to control your food ingredients and eat healthy year-round. Preserving food reduces food waste, waste in landfills, and our environmental footprint. It also contributes to the local economy and your wallet.
To preserve our hawker heritage, he believes the next generation of hawkers must first nail down the original recipes and then strive to "re-express" and improve on not just the dishes, but also the aesthetics of the food and the stalls.
Slow Food Singapore, an NGO championing local food heritage, has been involved in workshops and programmes to promote hawker culture. Other efforts include the “Incubation Stall Programme” by the National Environment Agency (NEA) to support aspiring hawkers to join the practice.
To help hawkers tide over this challenging period, the Alliance encourages members of the public to continue supporting hawkers through e-ordering, food delivery or take-out. Together, we can contribute to the sustainability and vibrancy of Singapore's Hawker Culture.
Their employment is insecure and irregular. Very low gain. This profession is not legal so they are in danger of harassment by varied social control agencies. These are the problems faced by hawkers and street vendors.
Dating as far back as the 1800s, hawker culture in Singapore originated from the early migrant population selling quick, affordable meals on street pavements, in town squares and parks – wherever they could set up their makeshift stalls.
SINGAPORE - About one in 10 Singaporeans struggled to get sufficient, safe and nutritious food at least once in the last 12 months, a study has found. Of this 10.4 per cent, two out of five households struggled to get such food at least once a month.
All rental stallholders have to personally operate their stalls. Subletting is not allowed. Stallholders paying market rent can apply to NEA to include a joint operator to operate the stall, provided each of them operates personally for at least half a day.
In most places where the term is used, a hawker sells inexpensive goods, handicrafts, or food items. Whether stationary or mobile, hawkers often advertise by loud street cries or chants, and conduct banter with customers, to attract attention and enhance sales.
Hawker Culture was consistently highlighted as an intangible cultural heritage that best represents Singapore's multicultural heritage, with hawker centres viewed as important community spaces. With the inscription, it is hoped that there will be greater appreciation and recognition for our hawkers.
Singapore Permanent Residents are not allowed to rent out their flat. If you bought your flat new from HDB or bought a resale flat with a housing grant from CPF: You must have occupied your flat for at least 5 years. To rent out bedrooms only: Only bedrooms from HDB flats that are 3-room or larger can be rented out.
During the MOP timeframe, you can't rent out your whole flat either. You can rent out individual rooms though. You must occupy at least one bedroom and make sure each rental is a period of at least 6 months, otherwise, you run the risk of having your flat confiscated by HDB.
A hawker is a person who sells things that can be easily moved from place to place. They are also known as peddlers, costermongers, or street vendors. Hawkers often sells food items,various types of toys for kids,jewellery for girls and women.
Street hawkers at Trengganu Street. After the 1980s, street hawkers no longer plied the streets as permanent hawker centres were set up. (1971. Photo courtesy of National Archives of Singapore.)
Hawkers was founded in December 2013 by Iñaki Soriano, Pablo Sánchez and the brothers Alejandro and David Moreno. Hawkers is part of the Saldum Ventures group and its current President is Alejandro Betancourt.
Since co-founding Hawkers Asian Street Food in 2011 with his three best buddies, Kaleb has been named on multiple 40 Under 40 Lists, and through his leadership Hawkers has been named a five-time Inc.
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