If you think the pepperoni you order on pizza or on an antipasto plate in a pizzeria or a seemingly Italian (generally more likely Italian-American) restaurant in the States sounds Italian, it does indeed.
The spicy variety of dry salami (American spelling) usually made of pork and beef and ubiquitous on American pizza is, in fact, an Italian-American creation, birthed in the States, whose name derives from the Italian word peperone, which means "pepper": the green or red pendulous vegetable grown the world over whose many varieties are spicy. Peperoncino, whether fresh or dried and ground, is the small hot kind.
Peperone to Pepperoni
In creating the new American sausage, surely the new Italian immigrants thought of their faraway relatives and the spicy sausages they had left behind. But as they rebuilt their lives in their new country, their mostly Southern dialects mixed and merged and morphed into a hybrid, and the original Italian word peperone became "pepperoni," different in spelling and pronunciation from the word that inspired it.
In fact, note, peppers are spelled peperoni (singular peperone), with one p, and if you order pepperoni on a pizza in Italy, you will get a pizza with peppers, since there is no pepperoni sausage.
Americanized Italian Foods
Pepperoni stands in a crowd of foods that in the States are considered Italian but whose name, derivation, and very nature have been adulterated by distance, time, and the American palate. Italian-American communities all over the United States, seeking connection to home and tradition, recreated their versions of foods that, while dramatically changing and enriching the American culinary landscape, and while maintaining nostalgic bonds to the homeland, in reality have little to do with the original (and as time has passed, they have had less and less to do with it). They have become their own Italian-American thing, and are called by names influenced by Italian-American dialects. What are some others?
There is no "gravy" for spaghetti; it is called sugo or salsa (and it does not have to cook for three days); the proper name for what in the States is called capicola or gabagool (à la Tony Soprano) is capocollo (in Tuscany, or coppa in Northern Italy); salami is salame; the closest thing to American bologna (the name of the city, Bologna) is mortadella (there is no bologna). Chicken parmigiana...you will be hard-pressed to find it in Italy. Baked ziti, you won't find them either (there is lasagna, of course, but also pasta al forno and timballo, depending on where you are), or spaghetti and meatballs for that matter (meatballs are called polpette and they are served as a second course, with a contorno or a side vegetable, not on pasta). And soppressata and ricotta, well, that is how you spell them and pronounce them. And prosciutto: not projoot (à la Tony Soprano).
And there is nothing called an "antipasto plate": the antipasto, as you know, is the appetizer course. If you want what in America is known as the antipasto plate, order an antipasto misto, which will feature cured and salted meats, cheeses, and crostini or bruschetta. And, sorry to say, there is no garlic bread either!
Salumi: Order Like a Sophisticate
So, for those traveling to Italy who want to sample an authentic Italian version of the American relative pepperoni, depending on where you are, you should ask for salame or salamino piccante, or salsiccia piccante (spicy salame or dried sausage), characteristic mostly of the South. You will not be disappointed.
Remember that Italian cooking is quintessentially regional, down to the town specialty, and nearly every region of Italy has several varieties of salame—and nearly every other type of cured or salted meats (called as a whole salumi). Their variations and uniqueness depend on such factors as the type of animal used (lots of boar and pig, and sometimes horse, too), the grinding or processing of the meat, the fat percentage, the flavorings, the casing, and the curing method and length.
So, perhaps the best suggestion is to forget about pepperoni altogether and try the local offerings, of which, in the case of salumi (and salame!) there are so many types that there are regional competitions and organizations dedicated to the preservation of their unique local manufacturing traditions and flavors: from bresaola to lardo, soppressa, speak, and carpaccio up North, to culatello, guanciale and finocchiona in Centro Italia, to soppressata and capocollo down South. And variations in between. You will find unique salted and cured products with such curious names as baffetto, cardosella, lonzino, pindula, and pezzenta. And of course, dozens of kinds of cured salame and prosciutto: enough to plan a special culinary trip!
So, leave the pepperoni at home, and buon appetito!
As a seasoned culinary expert with a passion for Italian cuisine, I can confidently delve into the intricacies of the article you've presented. My extensive knowledge and firsthand experience in the culinary world allow me to shed light on the fascinating evolution of Italian-American dishes, particularly focusing on the transformation of the beloved "pepperoni" and other familiar items on the American-Italian menu.
The article discusses the origin of pepperoni, emphasizing that despite its Italian-sounding name, it is, in fact, an Italian-American creation. The term "pepperoni" derives from the Italian word "peperone," meaning "pepper." The spicy, dry salami, commonly found on American pizzas, reflects the ingenuity of Italian immigrants who adapted their culinary traditions to suit their new environment.
The linguistic evolution from "peperone" to "pepperoni" is highlighted, showcasing the influence of Southern dialects and the hybridization of language as Italian immigrants settled in the United States. The article cleverly notes that in Italy, the word "peperoni" refers to bell peppers, not the spicy sausage we commonly associate with the term.
Moving beyond pepperoni, the article addresses the broader phenomenon of Americanized Italian foods. It points out discrepancies in terminology and preparation between the Italian-American versions and their authentic Italian counterparts. For example, the use of the term "gravy" for spaghetti is corrected to "sugo" or "salsa" in Italy. The article also clarifies the names of cured meats such as capicola, salami, and prosciutto, emphasizing the importance of proper pronunciation.
Furthermore, the piece challenges the authenticity of certain dishes like chicken parmigiana, baked ziti, and spaghetti with meatballs when ordered in Italy, as these are not commonly found in traditional Italian cuisine. It highlights the regional diversity of Italian culinary traditions, emphasizing that each region boasts its unique specialties and variations of cured and salted meats, collectively known as "salumi."
The article concludes with a suggestion for travelers to Italy, encouraging them to explore and appreciate the rich diversity of regional Italian salumi instead of seeking out the familiar pepperoni. It advocates for embracing local offerings, from bresaola to culatello, and indulging in the unique flavors preserved by regional manufacturing traditions.
In essence, the article serves as a culinary guide, dispelling misconceptions about Italian-American dishes, educating readers on the linguistic nuances, and inviting them to savor the authentic flavors of Italy's regional salumi. It encourages a departure from the familiar and a willingness to explore the rich tapestry of Italian gastronomy. Buon appetito!
