Its surface is the softest canary yellow evenly dimpled with pale gold. Its edges are as frilly as old French lace. It is so delicate you can barely pick it up. This is the perfect crepe.
You could argue that the perfect crepe is always the first of the batch. The one that sticks a little, collapses in a heap when you attempt to turn it, and is thicker than you would have liked. Wolfed hot and hissing from the pan, squirted with lemon and a thick layer of sugar - this is the pancake that pleases the mouth if not the eye. Hot and slightly doughy, tart with lemon and gritty with slightly too much sugar, this is the cook's perk, to be scoffed in secret.
On the other hand, the perfect crepe, or pancake if you prefer, is probably one that you make when you are in your stride, having got into something of a rhythm. If your batter is thin enough and you have a good pan, it won't take long. But the consistency of the batter is crucial. Too thin and your crepes will have no substance. Too thick and everyone will laugh at your attempts (though secretly they will like them even more so).
Pancakes are too good for a once-a-year mega-session on Shrove Tuesday. Which is why I resolutely wait until after the annual batterfest to make mine. I feel much the same way about plum pudding, too.
Lightness is crucial. Some cooks swear by adding beer or mineral water to the batter here in place of some of the milk. The mineral water isn't a bad idea (the beer can often give an unwanted yeasty note), but I am not convinced it is really needed. What is more important is that the cooking is done quickly, so that the pancake remains moist. Cooked too slowly, they tend to dry out. Another cause of thin, dry results is using a batter that is too thin. No matter what the recipe says, you should adjust the consistency of your batter to one resembling double cream.
You can get fancy with all manner of stuffings and sauces. French creperies have everything from chocolate sauce to apple purée on their menus. Moreish though these fillings can be, they run pretty close to gilding the lily. The only one really worth bothering with is crêpe suzette. I know it smacks of 60s flash-restaurant cooking, but this really is one of the great desserts of all time. Light crepes in a sticky butter and citrus sauce. Be snotty about it if you want, but frankly it's your loss. I reckon it's a charming way to end a meal.
But good as they are, I can't help thinking the perfect crepe is the one you eat at the cooker, scattered with sugar and patchily wet with lemon juice, eaten from your fingers while you calmly cook the next.
The pan
Ideally, a flat, iron pan with just a shallow rise at the edges to keep the batter in place. If you are buying a new one, look for one which is heavy in the hand, with a solid base that won't warp in the heat. Although the pancake will cook quickly, you want the pan to heat up slowly and retain that heat evenly throughout the session.
Getting the pan hot
Get the pan hot slowly, over a low to moderate heat. The only way to check whether it is hot enough is by having a go at making a pancake. It should be hot enough that the batter colours in less than a minute, but not so hot that the batter sets before you have time to let it run over the entire pan.
The batter
You don't have to let the batter rest before you use it, but after much experimenting I do think it best to set it aside for half an hour. The science behind this is simply that the rest period gives the protein in the batter time to relax and the starch time to expand.
The ingredients
Organic eggs from free-range hens have deeper-yellow yolks, so a crepe made with them will have a better colour. The flour should be plain, the milk can be skimmed or full cream - it doesn't make a fat lot of difference either way. Salt - the tiniest pinch, really - does make a difference. And what is more, I put it in whether it is going to be used for sweet or savoury.
Washing up
Don't. At least not the pan itself. Simply wipe it with kitchen roll to remove any traces of butter. Once the surface becomes well seasoned and virtually non-stick with age, you can give it the occasional wash in hot soapy water. It is essential to dry it thoroughly.
Storing your crepes
I can't imagine how anyone could resist a hot pancake straight from the pan, but if you want to make several in advance to stuff and roll up later, then you will need to take care. Occasionally even the best-made pancakes can stick together. Keep them separate by putting a small square of greaseproof or bakewell paper in the centre of each crepe. Even though it doesn't cover the whole surface, it will stop them from sticking. I have been told you can freeze them, but it is not the sort of thing I do.
The basic crepe
Makes about 12.
50g butter, plus more for cooking
100g plain flour
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
350ml milk
Melt most of the butter in a small pan and leave it to cool slightly. Sift the flour into a large mixing bowl with a good pinch of salt. Scoop a well in the centre of the flour, then drop in the egg and the egg yolk. You can beat them lightly first, but I'm not sure it makes much difference. Pour in the milk, whisking gently as you go, then whisk in the melted butter. Set the batter aside for about half an hour.
Melt some butter for frying. Heat an 18-20cm crepe pan and brush it with a little melted butter. Stir the batter - it should be the thickness of double cream - and pour 50-60ml into the pan. Working quickly, tilt the pan so that the batter runs all over the surface, making a neatish round. The base should be covered in batter, but not quite thin enough to see through.
Let the crepe cook for a minute or so until the underside is golden in patches and comes easily away from the pan. Lift one edge up with a palette knife and flip it gently over. The base should be cooked in 1 minute, maybe less - but it will only cook in patches, not as evenly as the first side. Tip it carefully on to a plate. Brush the pan with a little more melted butter and continue until you have used all the batter.
· For sweet pancakes, you can add 1 tbsp of caster sugar to the mixture and 2 tbsp of brandy. This will give a sweet, richer finish and is especially good for those who like their pancakes with cream or ice cream.
Orange and lemon pancakes
Having said how much I like plain pancakes, I do stuff them from time to time. I continue the citrus theme here because it works better than anything else I have tried. Yes, this dish is rich, but it is meant as an occasional dessert. It might be best following grilled fish or something relatively light. This is a bit of an assembly job - the batter, the pancakes, the filling, the sauce - but is deeply satisfying to make. Serves 4.
12 pancakes (see above)
The filling
325g lemon curd
100g thick, natural yogurt
200ml crème fraîche
1 level tsp lemon zest
The sauce
8 level tbsps orange or lemon marmalade
juice and finely shredded zest of 1 orange
2 level tbsps golden caster sugar
2 tbsps Cointreau
Warm the oven to 200 C/gas mark 6. Make the filling by stirring the ingredients lightly together, then cover tightly with clingfilm and chill in the fridge.
Melt the marmalade in a small pan over a moderate heat. Stir in the orange juice, zest, caster sugar and Cointreau. Bring the mixture to the boil then turn down the heat and simmer gently for 3 minutes. Spread the pancakes with the filling, fold them into quarters, and lay them in an ovenproof dish. Pour the hot sauce over the stuffed pancakes and reheat for 15 minutes.
