FOOD; Marinades and Herbs Enhance the Flavor of Fish (Published 1989) (2024)

WHEN it is absolutely fresh - straight out of the water - there is nothing better than fish cooked plain, brought sizzling to the table and served with a piece of lemon. But the fish we buy is not always that fresh. There are many ways to enhance its flavor, however, with fresh herbs like thyme or tarragon, or a marinade of soy sauce, spices and ginger.

In the winter, a freshwater fish like whitefish is good seasoned with mustard, lemon and garlic and baked in the oven. A whole fish such as striped bass or red snapper is good marinated in sesame paste and garlic before being baked. Coriander, cumin, fresh orange or grapefruit juice also enhance the flavor of fish.

Recently I came across some excellent whitefish fillets in the supermarket and decided to bake them on a bed of scalloped sweet potatoes. Whitefish is a member of the salmonidae family to which trout and salmon belong, and has a very low salt content. It is found in the Great Lakes and is usually sold whole or in fillets (in New York City you most often see it smoked, a Jewish delicacy). I had it at an interesting restaurant called Prairie in Chicago that specializes in local produce and serves a very sophisticated version of Midwestern cooking. Coho salmon are not much larger than trout and are excellent broiled. Their cavities can be flavored with dill, tarragon or fennel leaves. Parsnips sliced thin and baked a la Dauphinoise, in a touch of cream, go very well with them.

One of my favorite ways to cook a whole fish is with a marinade of sesame paste, soy sauce and garlic. When the fish is baked it develops a delicious crisp skin. The fish goes well with rice and sauteed spinach. Baked Whitefish With Sweet Potatoes Preparation time: 10 minutes 1 hour unattended Cooking time: 40 minutes 2 pounds whitefish fillets 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 cloves garlic, minced (green part removed) Juice 1/2 lemon 2 tablespoons safflower oil 2 tablespoons fresh thyme (or 2 teaspoons dried) 2 large sweet potatoes Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 1/4 to 1/2 cup creme fraiche 1/2 teaspoon Hungarian paprika.

1. Wipe the whitefish fillets dry with paper towels. In a small bowl combine the mustard, garlic, lemon juice, safflower oil and thyme. Spread the mixture over the fillets and let sit for an hour.

2. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

3. Peel the sweet potatoes and slice them thin, using a food processor if you like. Arrange them in a shallow baking dish that will hold the fillets comfortably in one layer. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper and dot with butter. You may need to make two layers or more of potato.

4. Add the onion and half of the creme fraiche, spreading it over the potatoes, just enough to moisten. Sprinkle with paprika, cover and bake for 20 minutes.

5. Remove the sweet potatoes from the oven and spread the fillets over the top. Pour the rest of the cream evenly over the fillets. Bake, uncovered, until the fish flakes with a fork, and the potatoes are soft, about 20 minutes.

Yield: 4 servings. Baked Whole Fish With Tahini Marinade Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes to 1 hour 1 3-pound whole white-fleshed fish (such as sea bass or red snapper) 3 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste) 2 cloves garlic, peeled 2 tablespoons peanut or safflower oil 1 tablespoon soy sauce 2 tablespoons fresh ginger, minced Juice 1/2 lemon or to taste Freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves 6 scallions, sliced 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds.

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Wipe the fish dry with paper towels.

2. Place the tahini, garlic, vegetable oil, soy sauce, ginger, lemon juice and pepper in a food processor and puree until smooth. Mix in the thyme and spread the mixture over the fish, inside and out. Sprinkle with scallions and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the fish is cooked. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and serve.

Yield: 4 servings. Broiled Coho Salmon With Parsnips Dauphinoise Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 30 to 45 minutes 1 pound parsnips Y to 1/2 cup heavy cream Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 coho salmon, boned Juice 1/2 lemon 2 tablespoons fresh tarragon or dill 1 tablespoon safflower oil.

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

2. Peel the parsnips and slice them very thin (the slicing can be done with a food processor). Lightly butter a glass or enameled cast iron baking dish. Place a layer of the parsnips in the dish, season with salt and pepper and continue layering until you have reached the top. Top with 1 tablespoon butter cut in small pieces and pour on just enough cream to moisten the parsnips. Cover loosely with foil and bake for 15 minutes. Uncover and bake for a further 15 to 30 minutes or until the parsnips are tender. If they get too dry, add more cream.

3. Preheat broiler.

4. Wipe the salmon dry with paper towels and squeeze the lemon juice into the cavities. Sprinkle with tarragon and place the remaining tablespoon of butter, cut in pieces, in the cavities. Season with salt and pepper.

5. Broil the fish for about 4 minutes on each side, turning once. Place on individual plates and pass the parsnips separately.

Yield: 2 servings.