If you want to find out if you've been "naughty or nice" this year, some stomping devils may be able to tell you.
In the weeks leading up to Christmas each year, parades are held throughout many of Austria's alpine villages in honor of Krampus, a demonic creature said to be the "evil twin" of St. Nicholas. The tradition began back in the Middle Ages as a Krampuslauf, or Krampus run, where people would dress up in his likeness and chase children down the street in a menacing way, threatening to beat them for not behaving.
The modern-day version, celebrated as a parade, is still enthusiastically practiced throughout the Austrian state of Tyrol. In the town of Igls, for example, families gather to watch a Krampus parade where young men dressed in fur suits, wooden masks, and belts decorated with cowbells ride chariots that are set alight to create a terrifying ambience.
Here's a look at the story behind this unique holiday tradition, plus some tips to help you make the most of your Krampus parade experience and a few things to check out while you're in the region for the festival.
The Legend of Krampus
Krampus is a popular character from Eastern and Central European folklore. According to History.com, the half-goat-half-human figure has roots in pagan winter solstice mythology, but the story of Krampus was later absorbed by Christianity and used to discipline children.
Think of it this way: While jolly old St. Nick delivers presents to all the well-behaved kids, Krampus punishes those who have been naughty during the year. Krampusnacht (Krampus night) is celebrated each year on St. Nicholas eve, the day before St. Nicholas Day (December 6), when kids receive gifts — or a lump of coal if they didn't behave themselves that year.
According to legend, Krampus captures naughty children in his sack and either beats them or drags them off to hell depending on how bad they've been. If that doesn't inspire you to be on your best behavior, we don't know what will.
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What to Expect at a Krampus Parade
While a Krampus parade can be an exciting spectacle, it may be alarming to someone who happens upon one without knowing what's going on.
During the festivities, Krampus figures and perchten (members of Krampus’ army of elves) descend on the crowd, looking for innocent bystanders — usually older kids and adults — to whip with prickly brooms and birch branches. In full character and costume, the masked actors appear to spare no force and often get rowdy, hounding their prey until they surrender. Many also rattle chains or flick their whips to instill fear in the spectators.
Most Tyroleans find the tradition to be harmless and can often be found sipping glühwein (mulled wine) and eating roasted chestnuts while taking part in the festivities with their friends and families. That said, Krampus parades seem to be more popular among adults, or at least those in their late teens and early 20s —it's a similar crowd and feel to Mardi Gras parades in New Orleans.
Watch from the sidelines or get in on the action by renting or creating your own Krampus costume. For a more traditional look, you'll need a mask (although face paint is also acceptable), devil-like horns, fake fangs, red contacts, shoes resembling hooves, and a furry suit. And don't forget the belt made of cowbells to announce your arrival to the rest of the crowd.
If you forgo the fur, be sure to dress warm (you're in the Alps in December, after all) and find a good spot by arriving 30 to 45 minutes early. If you don't want to get whacked by the roving Krampus demons, steer clear of the front row, avoid making direct contact with the parade participants, dressed as red-eyed monsters, and stay far from their swirling whips. There are no rules and you could get hurt.
Where to Find Krampus Parades
If you're passing through Central or Eastern Europe in early December, check with your destination's tourism board website to see if they'll be holding similar parades or festivals. You'll typically find Krampus-related events throughout alpine Austria, South Tyrol in Italy, Bavaria in southern Germany, Croatia, Slovenia, and Hungary.
The most popular parades happen throughout the state of Tyrol, particularly in Innsbruck and Salzburg, on St. Nicholas Eve, December 5. Plan on flying into Munich — yes, it's located next door in Germany but it's just a two-hour train ride from Salzburg in Austria. Otherwise, plan to fly into Innsbruck (which may require a connecting flight from another major city like Frankfurt or London, depending on where you're coming from) before driving or catching a train or bus to your desired Krampus parade town.
Christmas Markets and Other Sights
Most travelers tend to stay in the picturesque town of Innsbruck to enjoy the festivities. And while the Krampus parades draw in thrill seekers, the snow-covered Alps, lit-up wooden houses, bustling squares, and sparkling trees create holiday magic for visitors of all ages.
Don't miss the Christmas markets in Innsbruck and the surrounding Tyrol region, which attract vendors from all over Europe. Each one is a great place to pick up some handmade ornaments, candles, wool scarves, woodwork, and candy for all your friends and family back home, or to purchase something special to remember your trip to Austria by.
During your visit to Innsbruck, stop by the scenic gardens and museum of Swarovski Kristallwelten, where, in one exhibit, you can see 80,000 hand-mounted crystal clouds. For a real treat, head to the Nordkette, a beautiful mountain located in nearby Karwendel Nature Park, where you'll find a scenic cable car, an Alpine Zoo, and one of the steepest ski runs in Europe.
To learn more about the Krampusnacht tradition, visit the Krampus Museum a little over an hour's drive from Innsbruck in Kitzbühel, Austria, where you can view 780 hand-carved masks and other elements of traditional Krampus parade costumes. It's open each Sunday from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.
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