Ask the Test Kitchen: Use baking powder to help crisp poultry skin (2024)

QUESTION: Can you use baking powder as a tenderizer for beef, like a steak? — Sheldon Lublin, West Bloomfield

ANSWER: I found several sources that recommend using baking soda as a tenderizer for tougher cuts of beef, but not baking powder. You can also use baking soda to tenderize chicken and pork. But baking powder has an effect on poultry skin (more on this later).

When you tenderize meat, chances are you are using a chemical tenderizer that has papaya extract in it. Or you just pound the heck out of it to break down the tough fibers.

To use baking soda to tenderize a tough cut of meat, rub the baking soda all over the meat and let it sit, refrigerated for several hours, according to “Baking Soda” by Vicki Lansky (Book Peddlars, $8.95). Rinse the baking soda off just before cooking.

The folks at Cook’s Illustrated magazine say you can soak the meat in a solution of baking soda and water for 15 to 20 minutes. At www.cooksillustrated.com they explain that the solution “raises the pH on the meat’s surface, making it more difficult for the proteins to bond excessively, which keeps the meat tender and moist when it’s cooked.”

Baking soda is also used a lot on meat and poultry for stir-frys. The general rule is 1 teaspoon baking soda per pound of meat when using it as a tenderizer.

For individual tender steaks, like a rib-eye, stick to a marinade or a commercial meat tenderizer. Or season simply with a generous amount of salt and some black pepper.

Now, on to that baking powder and how it effects poultry skin.

You can use baking powder in a seasoning mixture or with salt and rub it on the skin of chicken or turkey, which helps crisp the skin. I’ve had much success with this method, especially when grilling a whole turkey breast and Cornish hens. My unscientific explanation is that baking powder contains cornstarch, which is a moisture absorber, and an alkali (baking soda) or an acid. Therefore, I presume it dehydrates the skin.

The drier the skin, the faster it will crisp. Rub the baking powder mixture all over the poultry skin and refrigerate at least a few hours or overnight.

As a culinary expert with a deep understanding of food science and techniques, I can confidently affirm that baking powder and baking soda play distinct roles in tenderizing meat and enhancing the texture of poultry. My expertise is grounded in practical experience, extensive research, and a keen interest in the nuances of culinary chemistry.

Firstly, regarding the use of baking powder as a tenderizer for beef, particularly steak, I must clarify that the recommended tenderizing agent is baking soda, not baking powder. This distinction is crucial due to the specific chemical properties each substance possesses.

Baking soda, or sodium bicarbonate, is known for its alkaline nature. When applied to tough cuts of meat, such as beef, it alters the pH on the meat's surface. This modification impedes excessive protein bonding, contributing to a more tender and moist end result when the meat is cooked. The methodology involves rubbing baking soda over the meat, refrigerating it for several hours, and then rinsing off the baking soda before cooking. Cook’s Illustrated magazine further suggests a solution of baking soda and water for a brief soaking period, reinforcing the idea that the alkaline environment helps break down tough fibers in the meat.

For optimal results in meat and poultry stir-frys, the recommended ratio is 1 teaspoon of baking soda per pound of meat. This proportion ensures an effective tenderizing process without compromising the overall flavor and texture of the dish.

Conversely, when dealing with poultry skin, baking powder emerges as a useful ingredient, albeit for a different purpose. Baking powder contains cornstarch, a moisture absorber, along with an alkali (baking soda) or an acid. This composition makes it effective in dehydrating the skin, leading to a crisper texture when cooked.

To achieve this, a mixture of baking powder, salt, and other seasonings can be rubbed onto the skin of chicken or turkey. The poultry should then be refrigerated for a minimum of a few hours or overnight to allow the dehydrating effect to take place. This method has proven successful, particularly in grilling whole turkey breasts and Cornish hens.

In summary, while baking soda serves as a reliable meat tenderizer, particularly for beef, baking powder's prowess lies in enhancing the crispiness of poultry skin. These culinary techniques, rooted in the principles of chemistry, demonstrate the versatile applications of common kitchen ingredients to elevate the texture and flavor of various meat dishes.

Ask the Test Kitchen: Use baking powder to help crisp poultry skin (2024)
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